How to Crochet 11: Understanding Gauge

(Yarn: Berroco Comfy Chunky in Goldenrod; Fabric: Heather Ross "Nursery Versery" for Kokka "Postage Stamp Cheater" in Yellow)

My mother and I both returned to knitting (and I was also learning to crochet) at the same time, about ten years ago. She was a new grandmother and I was hoping to become a mother soon, and the idea of little people around inspired us... I'm sure we weren't the first.

Anyway, I remember finding cute patterns and going to yarn shops to pick out a yarn and being completely bemused by the "gauge" references. I would hold a strand in my hand and compare it to another and if it seemed about the same I would go with it. Seriously. I had no idea what I was doing! One time I was working with a baby cardigan pattern and found a boucle yarn I loved but it seemed very thin so my mother suggested I double it. This is a good trick if you know what you are doing, but I didn't know the yarn's gauge to begin with and the result was a sweater that would fit a seven year old (Audrey is just now able to wear it).

For awhile I was content with these mistakes because I figured one of my girls would be able to wear what I'd made at some point. But I remember the day my mother called me excitedly after visiting a yarn shop. Some nice woman had helped her figure out the gauge thing! A whole new day dawned! I want to help you figure out gauge too. Because it is pretty essential to getting what you want out of crochet, or knitting for that matter.

Hooked? Click through to read all about it.

How to Crochet 10: Working in the Round

Though I love nothing more than finishing a project, the actual "finishing" of crochet is my least favorite thing. I just don't like weaving in all the ends and seaming the pieces. Whenever I follow a pattern, or design one of my own, I try to reduce the number of places for breaking the yarn and attaching new yarn to cut down on the literal loose ends. I also love patterns that are worked "in the round" because it means less seaming, and sometimes seamless!

Not only does it save time, but the result is often more comfortable to wear (this is especially true of sweaters). Hooray! Working in the round is just like it sounds: rather than working back and forth in rows you work in a circular pattern to create a shape that is either flat, like a disc (think hot pad or doily), or tubular (think cowl), or conical (think booties or hat or baby bonnet). It is typically the way you create crochet flowers--one of my favorite embellishments. Ironically, you also need to work in the round to make a granny square.

Hopefully just these few project mentions have persuaded you to give it a try. It's easy, and it opens up the possibilities of things you can do with yarn and a hook.

Click to view the photo tutorial for crocheting in the round.

How to Crochet 9: The Triple Crochet

Yarn: KnitPicks Swish DK yarn in Rouge Fabric: Liberty Tana Lawn Betsy in Pink

I am excited to resume my Head Over Heels in Crochet series. The love affair continues for me, but it's been challenging to fit everything in (my life and my blog!). I have some crochet projects planned but I'm also happy about picking up my How to Crochet posts. There is still so much to learn, starting with the triple crochet. Anyone notice that's where we left off? Sorry to leave you hanging for a bit...

The triple crochet is a tall stitch, as you can tell from my little sample above, so there is a lot of space around it. It's a great one for bohemian crochet skirts (I made one for myself and love the idea of some for my girls), airy sweaters and other patterns. And though it sounds impressive (something like the triple lutz), it's really just a simple extension of the single crochet and double crochet stitches you have been working. (If you haven't viewed the tutorials for those please start there as I break down the movements, such as yarning over, to a greater degree than I do in this tutorial.)

Are you ready to triple?

Click to view the photo and video tutorial for creating the triple crochet stitch.

How to Crochet 8: The Half Double Crochet (Tutorial)

Yarn: Stich Nation Full O' Sheep in Clementine  Fabric: Alexander Henry Mushroom City in Yellow

I love the Half Double Crochet (usually abbreviated "HDC"). So mysterious...what is a half double? Wouldn't that be a single. Well, no.... it's not in fact.

The half double crochet is used for something between the height of a single crochet and a double crochet. I suppose there are a couple ways to explain it but I think it's easiest to learn the double crochet first and then subtract from there, thus this tutorial comes after the one for the double crochet.

The half double crochet is the primary stitch used a couple baby hat patterns of mine (the Best Baby Cloche and the Ruffled Rose Earflap Hat), and many many other hats and sweaters besides. It's just a good go-to for a crochet fabric with a bit more interest than a straight single crochet. A bit of texture, not too lacey. Nice and warm.

Interested? Click to read more and view the photo and video tutorial.

How to Crochet 7: Weaving In the Ends (Tutorial)

Yarn: Lily Sugar'n Cream in Hot Pink; Fabric: Windham Fabrics "Storybook VIII Toss"

Invariably, when you come to the end of a crochet pattern you will read the words, "weave in ends," or "weave in the ends," or "weave in your ends." Regardless of the wording, this is referring to the action of cleaning up all the stray yarn tails left from the first slip knot, the last fasten off, and any places you have added a new skein. This is my least favorite part of any pattern! I am fine with the repetitive stitch making but when I'm finished I want it to be finished--I dislike this final tidying up. 

In any event, I thought it might be helpful to have a little demonstration of the "weaving in" since it took me more than a couple years to get it right. It's the difference between a nicely finished project and one that in time has stray ends again, and even worse, fraying ends.

To view the tutorial click to read more.

How to Crochet 6: The Double Crochet

Yarn: Stitch Nation's Full O' Sheep in Clementine  Fabric: IKEA

The “fabric” created with single crochet is beautiful in itself, and versatile if you think about washcloths, sweaters, blankets, satchels, and scarves. I love the density and texture it creates. But as you move on to the other stitches things really start to get interesting, especially because you can combine them!

As I have mentioned in my previous "How to Crochet" posts, the really nice thing about crochet is that the stitches build on each other. If you’ve learned the motion of a chain stitch it’s just a matter of the number of times you yarn-over and pull the yarn through to create the other crochet stitches. So if you’ve been practicing your chains and single crochets you’ll be amazed at what you can do next.

Click to view the photo and video tutorial for creating the double crochet stitch.

How to Crochet 5: Seaming Your Work

In this how-to series we could move right on from single crochet to the other stitches (double crochet, half double crochet and triple crochet) but I'm pausing to talk about "seaming" because if you want to make anything other than washcloths or rectangular scarves or afghans (which are all good) you're going to need to seam some pieces together. Seaming is a good skill to have and it can be the difference between a cute sweater looking handmade instead of homemade. I am going to share two different methods. The first is the invisible mattress stitch, which works equally well for knitting or crochet by the way, and the second seaming method uses a single crochet stitch.

Click to view the full tutorial.

How to Crochet 4: The Single Crochet (Tutorial)

Yarn: Stitch Nation Full o' Sheep Passionfruit   Fabric: Kathy Hall for Andover Fabrics

The great thing about crochet is that every stitch you make is based on the same actions you did when forming a chain stitch. So if you are feeling comfortable with the chain stitch you are most of the way there! Truly! The rest is just a matter of keeping track of the number of times you "yarn over" and pull the yarn through the working loop (or loops). 

If you are just learning to crochet I would recommend yards and yards of chain stitches, which you can pull out and remake, and inches of single crochet rows. I wouldn’t recommend picking out a pattern and starting there. However, if you are like I am, in that you aren’t very fond of pure practice and instead need something to show for all the work, then think “washcloths.” Washcloths are a perfect practice project. You can work on basic stitches and end up with something for scrubbing dishes, or exfoliating your face. Cotton crochet washcloths are fantastic, a bit of a luxury actually, but they don’t need to be a specific size, gauge or perfectly square. I have a step-by-step tutorial for some ribbed washcloths right here.

So whether you practice and tear out and practice again, or take a run at a washcloth, get ready to single crochet!

Click to view the photo and video tutorial.

How to Crochet 3: The Chain Stitch (Tutorial)

Yarn: Lion Brand Wool Ease Grey Heather  Fabric: Premier Prints ZigZag Coral

(Thank you for the great feedback about this series! I've loved reading your comments and really appreciate the input about helps you are looking for. I'm planning on addressing your questions about more advanced stitches and how to read patterns, so please stay tuned!)

The chain stitch (abbreviated "ch" in most patterns) is the foundation all other stitches build on. At the beginning of every project you will need to form a chain of a specific length. The chain will either remain linear or be joined to form a loop for working in the round (something we’ll discuss later). It is simple to do, and the hooking, turning and pulling-through actions you make are the fundamental movements of crochet. So practicing chain stitches is good exercise!

But, lest you think it's pure practice, you can do something with the chain stitch alone. Such as, wrap it around your pony tail, or tie it as a bow on a package. Pretty. Handmade. Natural fibers. What could be better?

Click to read my photo and video tutorial on making the chain stitch.

How to Crochet 2: Holding the Yarn (Tutorial)

Yarn: Lion Brand Vanna's Choice Dusty Blue  Fabric: Liberty of London Seymour Poplin Patrick Gordon

As I mentioned in the first post in this series, one of the things I think makes crochet easier than knitting, is that the work is done with one hook, instead of two needles. I'm maintaining that, however, in order to do the work with the hook one has to hold the yarn in the opposite hand. Makes sense, right? And the way in which that is done does make a difference.

A bit of skill in the holding of the yarn will actually make the stitches look better! This has to do with yarn tension, which will make your stitches tighter or looser. I still think crochet takes less coordination than knitting but when I first tried figuring out the way to hold the yarn--weave it through my fingers to be more precise--I felt nothing close to coordinated!

So my advice to you is to try out the "yarn holding" method I illustrate below and if you can get comfortable with it for crocheting you will be that much better off. That's why I'm sharing it now, before teaching any of the stitches. But if you can't get comfortable holding it the "right" way, don't sweat it. I crocheted a couple years before I settled on a way of holding the yarn. But I will say that once I committed to this hold my work went more smoothly! It's definitely worth a try.

Click to view the photo and video tutorial for holding your yard.

How to Crochet 1: The Slip Knot (Tutorial)

Yarn: Lily Sugar'n Cream Yellow  Fabric: Michael Miller Ta-Dot Stone

I started crocheting as an adult, just eight years ago, and when I was trying to learn I just could not keep a straight face! I keep laughing at the awkwardness of my movements, the irregularity of my stitches and the lopsidedness of the hats I was trying to make! A fourteen year old was trying to teach me and I think she was trying not to laugh herself.  It was fun and frustrating and I think it was also really good for my brain. How often do we try to learn something new? Seems we do a lot of that as children and then we stick to what we know. Don’t miss out! Give crochet a try and be patient with it if you feel frustrated. In time you will relax, your hands will develop muscle memory and make the repetitive movements without you thinking about it, and your stitches will become even and predictable.

When you are starting out it’s best to plan on doing a lot of practice. Pick a medium weight yarn (cat 4 or "worsted weight") and medium sized hook (an “H” “I” or “J”) to play with.

The ideal way to learn this craft is to sit down with someone who can teach you. (I just taught my friend, Leon, a couple weeks ago and it was so fun! He is already working on an afghan!) The next best way to learn is to study videos, photos and illustrations and try to imitate what you are seeing. There are some amazing video tutorials out there and it seems most crochet books and magazines include a good how-to section. I will illustrate the core techniques here, but you should also check out some other sources--you never know which explanation will make it click for you.

First up is the "slip knot." You have to make one before you can do anything else! The slip knot secures your yarn to your hook to begin work. It also keeps the work you’re about to do from unraveling, which is important.

Click to view my photo and video(!) tutorial to learn how to make one.